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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small shop earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.